With its distinctive leaning summit tower, Warbonnet Peak is easily one of the most recognizable peaks in the Sawtooths. Remote, wild, and surrounded by many other unique spires and craggy peaks, camping below it is a worthy destination in its own right. But for those looking for adventure and challenge, Warbonnet offers a moderate but exciting climbing route to an extremely exposed summit!
The approach to Warbonnet can be an adventure in it’s own right. An 8 mile approach takes you off trail past Alpine Lake, over two high ridges, and down into the head of the trail-less Goat Creek drainage. You’ll walk by Warbonnet Lakes to a stunning campsite at Feather or Bead Lakes surrounded by polished granite – a testament to the extensive past glaciation.
After scrambling up to the saddle below the summit tower, the real climbing begins. The South Face is 6-7 pitches of moderate climbing, with a short section of 5.7 to keep you honest. While the climbing is fairly easy, it’s varied enough to keep it interesting – and the views can be downright distracting. But the highlight of the route is, without a doubt, the final pitch to the overhanging summit block. Unbelievably exposed with 1000 feet of air below your feet, you’ll be extremely grateful to be tied to a rope. With space enough for one person, you’ll enjoy the exhilarating summit on your own. Savor the moment, and it you have enough guts, we dare you to stand up!
