North Face - III AI 3

This is the classic alpine climb in Idaho. By late summer and early fall the route generally promises 1500 feet of steep snow followed by 3-4 pitches of 55-60 degree alpine ice. This climb can be done in a long day, but perhaps best enjoyed with a bivy in the high basin below the North face.

South Face - III 5.7

Located deep in the range on the western slope, Warbonnet is a committing and remote climb. From a camp in the upper Goat Creek drainage the ascent of Warbonnet requires two thousand feet of scrambling and technical 5.7 rock climbing. The summit pitch is one you'll never forget.

Stur Chimney - II 5.7

Climb the Stur Chimney Route on the most dramatic peak in the Sawtooths! A long approach leads to two 5.7 pitches high above Redfish and Bench Lakes. Overnight options utilize a camp at the highest Bench Lake and go for the summit the following morning. Prior climbing experience is not a pre-requisite for this climb.

Northeast Ridge - II 5.2

From Warbonnet Lake the Northeast Ridge leads directly to the summit of Packrat Peak. The ridge itself is mainly 3rd class rock and the summit block is easy 5th class. Packrat is a great option during a multi-day trip to the Warbonnet area.

Chockstone/Boyscout couloir - Steep Snow/5.4

This is another classic Sawtooth snow climb and is accessed via the boat shuttle across Redfish Lake. Grand Mogul is located at the southern end of Redfish Lake, and the couloir is a prominant diagonal feature cutting the upper face. One can see this enticing line from anywhere on the lake and from Redfish Lake Lodge. The crux is often the giant wedged chockstone about a third of the way up the couloir. Easy scrambling leads to the summit from the top of the couloir.

North Face Couloir - Steep Snow/4th class

Situated prominently above Stanley Lake, McGown Peak is the most photographed mountain in the Sawtooths. The North Face couloir is a steep snow climb up to fifty degrees with 3rd and 4th class rock climbing to the summit. It can be done in a full-day via the Alpine Way Trail from Stanley Lake.

Sickle Couloir - Steep Snow/Ice/5th class

This route has become popular in recent years for skiers looking to descend this highly coveted line! During early to mid summer the Sickle Couloir is a steep snow climb with 3rd through easy 5th class climbing to the summit. Fit climbers can get it done in a long day, but there are spectacular bivys below the base of the couloir.

Northeast Ridge - II 4th class

The Northeast Ridge of the Devils Bedstead (left skyline in the photo) offers up clean quartzite and fun climbing on one of the most dramatic peaks in Idaho. The ridge is intimidating from a distance, but goes with 3rd and 4th class scrambling. Access is via Trail Creek Summit near Ketchum.

Broken Arrow Arete - III 5.7

This route is an overlooked gem on the east side of the Pioneer Range. From the mouth of Wildhorse Creek you can see the sinuous Broken Arrow Arete as it weaves its way to the north summit of locally named Mustang Peak. Expect technical difficulties up to about 5.7, and 3rd and 4th class scrambling on an exposed quartzite ridge. The non-technical descent follows a boulder field down the south side of the mountain.

Another one of Idaho’s 12,000 foot summits, Hyndman Peak is the tallest in the Pioneer Range near Sun Valley. The elevation gain is a little over 5000’ spread out over about six miles. Some people like to use their mountain bikes on the approach, which adds a fun dimension to the climb.